Gravel Driveways

Why Maintaining a Gravel Driveway Matters

Routine maintenance keeps your driveway safe, smooth, and cost-effective. Proper upkeep extends lifespan, reduces washouts, minimizes dust and mud, and protects nearby landscaping. Regular grading, filling low spots, and maintaining drainage prevents potholes and ruts from forming.

Materials Overview

Common materials include:

• Crusher Run (a.k.a. 3/4” minus): A blend of crushed stone and fines. Excellent for base layers and repairs due to compaction.
• Clean Crushed Stone (e.g., 3/4”): Angular stone without fines. Great for drainage layers or as a top layer in low-dust applications.
• Dense Grade Aggregate (DGA): Similar to crusher run; compacts tightly and resists shifting.
• Pea Gravel: Smooth, rounded stones. Attractive but prone to rolling; best used for decorative areas, not steep driveways.
• Gravel with fines: Improves binding and compaction—ideal for surface repair when stability is needed.
• Geotextile fabric: Installed beneath the base to separate soil from aggregate, prevent pumping, and extend lifespan.

Matching Materials to Applications

• Repairing potholes: Cut out soft material to a firm base, install crusher run or DGA in lifts, and compact thoroughly. Avoid just “filling the hole” with loose stone; it will scatter and re-form.
• Preventing ruts on steep inclines: Use angular stone with fines (crusher run/DGA) to lock in place. Increase crown slightly, add cross drains or water bars if needed, and consider a stabilizing grid or geotextile under the base.
• Improving drainage: Use clean crushed stone as a sub-layer or shoulder material to move water off the surface without clogging.
• Reducing dust: Consider a well-compacted surface layer with fines or dust control treatments, and maintain proper moisture during compaction.

Proper Crowning and Ditches

A well-built gravel driveway has a slight crown (typically 2–4%) so water sheds to the sides instead of pooling. Ditches or swales alongside the driveway collect and move water away from the surface. Without crown and drainage, even the best materials will rut and wash out. Periodically regrade to maintain the crown and keep ditches clear of sediment, leaves, and vegetation. Add culverts where water must pass beneath the driveway.

New Gravel Driveway Construction

1. Site Assessment: Identify soil type, drainage patterns, slopes, and any soft spots. Plan ditch lines and culvert locations.
2. Clearing and Grubbing: Remove vegetation, topsoil, roots, and organic material. Strip to firm subgrade.
3. Subgrade Preparation: Shape and compact the subgrade. Install geotextile fabric over weak soils to prevent pumping and mixing.
4. Base Installation: Place crusher run/DGA in lifts (typically 3–4 inches per lift), compact each lift with a roller or heavy plate. Total base thickness often ranges from 6–12 inches depending on soil and traffic.
5. Establish Crown: Grade the base to a 2–4% crown. Verify slopes to ditches or swales.
6. Surface Layer: Add a final layer (e.g., dense graded or a top course of clean crushed stone depending on preference and dust tolerance). Compact thoroughly.
7. Shoulders and Edges: Shape shoulders to move water away and support the edges. Avoid sharp drop-offs.
8. Drainage Features: Install ditches/swales and culverts where needed. Ensure outlets are clear and stable.
9. Final Compaction and Roll: Compact the entire surface for a tight, durable finish.